Here I am on hospitality highway. But back to that later. First how I got to be on it. From Fort St. John it was an easy two days to Chetwynd, where Tom was waiting and we spent a day there hanging out. Then the next afternoon Tom stuck out his thumb and I began my journey to Prince George. It was 300km away but I wanted to be there for the following evening for Halloween, and I had a couchsurfer awaiting my arrival.
.
So off I went up the big hill I knew was there. Though the maps and stories told of a steeper hill than I found and by dusk I was almost at the summit of Pine Pass. My plan was to ride as late as I could to make sure I made it on time and so as the darkness gathered I put on my lights (a new one to replace the one pinched back in Fort Nelson). By about 8 I had finished the climb and was now following a winding, lonely road high up in the mountains. There was little traffic, perhaps one truck each 10 minutes. When they came from the front I would have to lower my head and furrow my brow to limit the glare of their headlights, and when they approached from behind I became nervous, checking over my shoulder to see if they were pulling out. Then looking ahead at the shadow they had made of me, watching for it to arc to the right and then checking over my shoulder again just to be sure. I passed the occassional lodge or cafe but didn’t enter, I had my own food and could do without the warmth for now. Still, I felt a thrill each time I passed the homeliness of lights and warmth, back into the thick and welcoming darkness. I imagined watching myself from above, just John on his bike with donuts and the blink blink blinking red light. I could make out a mountain range to my left though couldn’t see for sure where the tops were, sometimes a little way above, other times much higher, looming over the road. I felt that thrill again and pedalled on. I saw a creature, not a deer for sure but in my poor light I couldn’t see what it was, a wolf, a big cat, probably just a fox. After a while I reached a downhill and leant over my handlebars to put my front light on its highest setting, illuminating the white line to my right for about 10 metres ahead, which now passed quickly. The bridge, and then pilons took me by surprise as they were outside my narrow beam. The hill steepened and though I couldn’t tell at the time I was now going 55kmph, concentrating fully on that white line, scrutinizing any signposts for hints of curves ahead. Twice a truck approached from in front and I had to lower my gaze from its lights (the Basilisk’s eyes) but first memorising the upcoming curves. Then a quick look up before ducking again for the rush of air that always followed a couple of seconds after a truck. Then the steepness cooled to a flat again and I was through Pine Pass. It was about 10 by then and the weather deterioarated to dull rain. By midnight I was tiring. I noticed my thoughts becoming stranger, actually the thoughts that lead to dreams. I could have easily snapped out of it by pulling down my muffler and letting th cold air in but I was reluctant to do that. Also I had read about a guy called Schermer having a UFO abduction hallucination on a long ride and I wanted one too. But I was tired yet not exhausted and so there were no hallucinations and instead I felt myself weave to the left and correct myself automatically, then realising my eyes had been closed, so I had fallen asleep on my bike (again). Now desperate for a place to sleep and yet not wanting to pitch my tent in the now heavy rain I hoped for a shelter and not long after saw a light, which turned out to be a cafe, closed of course (now 1am), but the toilets were open and there was a space outside the cubicles big enough for my bivi and so there I slept.
.
After a fairly easy ride the next day into Prince George I heard from Tom that he had managed to hitch on and suddenly I felt tired, no longer excited about Halloween and my plans. But I needn’t have worried, the tiredness went and I was now on the Hospitality Highway.
.
I was greeted by Kim and her friend Kyra. Kim had pasta ready for my arrival and a costume laid out for the evening ahead - my first authentic Halloween. It was a fun night and ended with me asleep on her futon, still in my pharaoh costume. Kim was a great host, keen to make sure I was content and having a good time (and I was) and I stayed with her for another two days, with her and Kyra keeping me well fed. When I did leave I had a bag full of food for the road and headed towards Quesnel.
.
It was an easy two day ride and when I got there I met Mike in a Tim Hortons. Mike invited me to stay with him and we quickly became good friends. I stayed with him for two more days, enjoying the best of Quesnel and then once more I left (though Mike was keen for me to stay as long as I liked - ’stay all winter if you like lad’).
.
Another day in the saddle and then I was in Mcleese Lake. I walked into a pub and straight away the landlord (Greg) gave me my coke on the house - ‘you’re the cyclist? then you’re the designated driver.’ Then I was given a Guinness. Then a bowl of soup. Then a shot of Amarula. Then a reflective vest, and finally a warm and dry spot to sleep in.
.
Amazed by this run of generosity I rode towards Williams Lake, where I am now. I had to pass through the stretch of savage dogs, chasing me down the road biting at my bags, with me speeding up so as to keep them at the bags and not my ankles. Then a while later I heard a bark, loud enough to hear through my headphones, not a dog. And to my immediate right I saw a bear and her cub scampering away - I must have surprised them and luckily her response was flight. And soon I was in Williams Lake, and not two minutes after I had arrived had a lady called Pam offered me a place to stay! So that is where I will be tonight, riding the hospitality highway.